Tuesday, April 23, 2024

Paris Day 3: Carnival, libraries, etc

 

Tuesday

4/23

1030am Musee des Arts Forains (printed), Bercy Village

Lunch: Brasserie de l’Isle Saint-Louis 

BNF Richelieu Museum closed Monday; Tue-10a-8p; W-Su 10a-6p

 

-I’ve known about Musee des Arts Forains for awhile but since it is far outside central Paris, it hadn’t made the list. So it was time to see what this place was all about.

-It’s a bit of a hike from the 16th to Bercy Village on the Metro. But the metro station lets out at the shopping center which was clean and fresh with cute stores and eateries. We were running a little late so kept walking to the museum. We arrived at 1003, lol, and the tour had already departed. It was all in French but they gave us a handout to follow along. The very nice young woman guide did not translate or engage in English (except to tell me she loved my hair and had done some blue in hers in the past, and to tell all non-French speakers that the race games would be repeated so all could participate, and to give the safety instructions for the bike carousel). She did a great job with the kids on the tour and kept their attention.

-It was a fun place to see and explore. We heard opera from wax mannequins; rode a horse carousel; I sat on a goat; there were waiter and horse races--they moved when a ball was successfully rolled into their slots, I finished 3rd in my race; the bike carousel was so fun; and dancing in the grand ballroom was a kick. The guide actually thanked me for dancing, lol.

-It was about 90 minutes long. I told husband I wish they would record the commentary in English and make it available on the website so we could listen along instead of having to read. We did miss a lot! But it was fun.

-We were hungry so went over to Bercy Village and settled on a Japanese place. Pretty good lunch. Very busy place!

-With no real set agenda, and the parc de Bercy right there, we walked through it-very pretty. Climbed up over the road and looked at the flowering plots on the other side—still too early for many blooms, heading in the direction of the Biblioteque Nationale de France (BBF) Francois Mitterand. I had read they had Louis XIV globes on display.

-It was quite a hike (and my feet were definitely hurting) and included crossing the Seine—it was bigger than expected out there.

-The library was enormous! The hall we went down was lined with chairs and people working on laptops or reading quietly. Behind the hall were the library stacks but you’d need a library card to access them. At the end of the hall was a terrace and a café and the enormous globes. Only 2 on display and the exhibit was closed. But they were quite impressive.

-We walked into another free exhibit about punk in France. Then made the long walk out along a different hallway from the one we entered (no chairs or patrons on this one). There was a small forest in between the two long hallways. It was a massive library!

-I wanted to visit the newly reopened museum at BNF Richelieu so we found the Metro and there we headed. When we arrived, we realized that our old favorite brunch place, Les Manufacturers Alain Ducasse, was on one corner. We’re still sad that place has closed down permanently.

-Got through security, paid our entry fee, and explored the collection. I liked that there was a QR code with descriptions of specific items in each room and once we figured out how to find the items (there’s a number next to their description on the physical display board), we read up on these treasures. One fact that blew me away was that the BNF has 600,000 precious coins in their collection. There were maybe 100 on display.

-The Mazarin Gallery was spectacular! So many precious items on display. I loved seeing the original manuscripts like Zola’s J’accuse, for example.

-We saw the oval reading room and it was as impressive as I remembered. When we saw it the first time, the museum was closed and under renovation and they had some sad little displays in another building. The new museum is great and I would recommend it to anyone.

-Outside, we walked into the cute Square Louvois with the statues of French Rivers and little girls gawking at my hair, lol.

-We had drinks at Earth K, packed with youngish locals.

-Then grabbed the Metro to have dinner at Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis again. Better seats this time, in the middle of the restaurant. Got crowded. Husband loved his burger again. I had the salade du jour and his fries. Fun.

-Back home for the 11pm sparkle show and a spectacular full moon. Was a long day!

 

Paris

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