Back in Paris! Day 1

 

Sunday

4/21

Eurostar to Paris 1024am-1358 at Gare du Nord, (in apple wallet) check in to Rue Lekain, procure groceries, L’As du fallafels, Bansky, Stravinsky Fountain, St. Merri (8a-8p), Pompidou (11a-9p) free terrace   -Today was the London Marathon and I’d been concerned that it would affect transportation to St. Pancras. It did not at all. Per the google and citymapper, there was a direct train to St. Pancras from St. James’s Place. It was a little confusing because not all the trains on the line went there. So an attendant helped us figure it out. We trudged our bags down the steps and waited about 5 minutes for our train. It was empty except for a few commuters and runners. I got to hear a long conversation between two runners/strangers about how they qualified for the race. I guess they don’t just let any ole person run it. -We arrived at St. Pancras and followed the signs to check in for our train at 1031. No problem going through bag check or passport checks. It’s funny that you exit England and in three steps are entering France. Of course I said “bonjour.” -We had about 90 minutes until departure and there was not much to do in the waiting area. I got coffee and husband got us a sandwich to share from Pret. -Boarding was a bit of a pain since the escalator to our carriage was broken and it was a struggle to pull the bags up it. The other escalator was jam packed so we didn’t want to bother with that. We made it, me more tired than husband! We marveled at the man in front of us who was pulling two rolling bags, he looked pretty old but must’ve been in great shape, or the bags were really light… -The seats were facing forward, hallelujah, but didn’t have a window, yup. I hate trains. Thankfully there was no one seated directly in front of us so as soon as the doors closed, we moved up. Much better. The views were good but a bit hard to see out of the filthy windows. -We were served a meal with wine (if so desired, rose pour moi svp). Husband got falafels, I can’t remember what mine was. It was OK. It was a pretty smooth ride, the train was going really fast, like 260km at times. The section in the Chunnel was no big deal. I’d definitely take it again for the convenience of city center to city center travel. -At Gare du Nord, we decided to take the metro line 9 to the apartment, getting off at La Muette. Pretty easy as we’re quite familiar with this subway system. We didn’t realize, though, that there are escalators for the final leg up to the street at La Muette and boy those last steps were tough with heavy luggage. But we made it to Rue Lekain and were met by Sophie to check us into her apartment. -Great location. Building a little run-down, needed more lighting in the lobby area. Tiny elevator but it fit both of us and our luggage up to the 3rd floor (4th US). The apartment was spacious with a good layout. Enter at the kitchen, to the left is the large living and dining with windows onto a courtyard and a view of the top of the ET. Behind the glassed in kitchen wall, a small hallway with a bedroom on each end and a bathroom and toilet in between. Well stocked. Husband didn’t like that it was not as sterile as the one in London. It had the owner’s personality all over it. And he didn’t find the bed very comfortable. The toilet seat was very noisy! He got up each morning to close the second bedroom window, which looked out onto Rue Lekain, because of the garbage and traffic noises (I didn’t notice). But we left the windows open to keep it cool. -He decided he didn’t want L’As du Fallafel (I was shocked!!) so we decided to have dinner at Le Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis later on. The plan was to walk around, stop in at St. Merry, see the Stravinsky Fountain, take the escalators at the Pompidou for the views, then dinner. The Metro got us there no problem. -This was our third attempt to tour St. Merry. The first time, with Joel, it was closed. The second time, a mass was going on. This time there was a free concert in progress. The music was lovely. I stood and watched/listened and husband wandered around. We left when it ended. It was lovely and now officially my favorite intro to Paris! -Around the corner was the Stravinsky Fountain that recently reopened from a renovation. It was so cute! And whimsical. All it needed was funky music. Really cool. -The Pompidou had lots of barricades and construction out front. I asked the guard about entering it and he answered me in French! Must have had a pretty decent accent, lol. He also repeated everything in English. We walked around the corner and chose any line to get through security control. -The Pompidou is free so we just asked inside for the terrace, which is on the 7th floor. Up the clear escalators with lovely views of Paris. We decided against sitting outside for a drink, too chilly, and were placed at a table right next to the inside door. Husband was unhappy about it but my wine and his drink were tasty. He was at his grumpiest today. -We lingered, enjoying the view then headed out toward Hotel de Ville. It was so beautiful! Still decked out in Paris 2024 Olympics decorations as it was just a few weeks ‘til the games. The plaza in front was all open but no one was performing. -We crossed over to Ile de la Cite to check on Notre Dame and studied the spire. We could see from the Pompidou that it was two toned, black on top, light brown wood color on the bottom, but couldn’t believe it would be bare wood. But that’s what it looked like up close too. There was still a ton of scaffolding around the cathedral but there has definitely been progress since December. I would be shocked if it really reopens in 12/2024. -We were sat at Le Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis around 730. Us and a bunch of English speakers. The place was pretty empty but they had everyone in the back ¼ of the restaurant, including one completely stoic couple in the cat-bird seat. -The burger was as good or better than husband remembered. I enjoyed my salade du jour and some of his fries. They had a new waiter, a younger, maybe Italian, guy. He said the old guys (esp the one with the white goatee and the funny voice) had been there 60 years and were still working because they didn’t contribute to their pensions when they could so didn’t have enough to live on without working. -Back to the Metro, where we were in the first car and had access to the “controls” after the kids got off. Pretty cool.

Paris